the preppy new trend of Fashion Week

What could be more polite and sensible than a shirt under a sweater? Over the decades, the combination of these two pieces has become a true uniform of the good middle class – a humble style that is so expected that we hardly notice it anymore. And perhaps it is precisely for this reason that so many designers have tried to rethink it for the SS25 season, in keeping with the unwritten rule that even the most washed-out and boring outfit can be consciously given a new and unexpected life with a single one can out of place Element. This element is in this case the collar of the shirtthat has been subjected to one asymmetrical A style seen throughout fashion month, with half of it exposed and stretched almost over the jacket collar and the other half hidden underneath. The trend was initiated by Miu Miu Two years ago, with the FW22 collection, where various cardigans and shirt collars were half worn, as if the models had been dressed in a hurry. A touch of style that appeared in the brand’s campaigns and then again in the SS24 collection and remained for the next two, including the latest collection presented in Paris. a kind of brand signaturea radical statement of casualness. In June last year The series incorporated the quirk into the lookbook for the spring 2025 collection, only to repeat it with a variation the following year, when she dressed Mariacarla Boscono in a turtleneck whose high, pinched and compressed collar crumpled the shirt collar. But in recent fashion weeks, this little detail that we might call “messy collar” has multiplied in both big and small shows.

The presence of the messy collar was quite varied. Out of SchiaparelliFor example, a rigid and asymmetrical collar with a rounded profile evoked, in a somewhat baroque way, the style that others had applied more literally. Out of Peter DoOn the other hand, they were the shirts that were buttoned diagonally and the entire construction was oriented to the right so that one of the points of the collar went to the neck and the opening to the shoulder – something similar was done by Palomo Spain. In the Undercover However, the men’s show featured a waistcoat placed on a jacket with narrow lapels, and one of those two lapels appeared raised and creased while featured in the brilliant SS25 collection BallyThere was a light green loden jacket with a collar that looked like it had just escaped a storm. However, the literal applications were more numerous: the first mentioned is natural Pradawhich in the SS25 men’s collection created several shirts with a wire inside that gave the impression of being carried by the wind; Some of these had a collar point hidden on one side and raised on the other side. More subtle, in New York and Toyo, Collina Strada And Anrealagewhere the side of a jacket has been pushed down and slightly to the side to reveal half of the collar, while in the latest lookbook Studio Nicholson Simply lift the collar of the shirt over that of the sweater and wrap it around your neck. Out of Proenza Schouleron the other hand, some looks included shirts with raised half collars but no layers, while from Balenciaga There was pretty much just layering, with the collar of a black and white checked shirt long enough to fully emerge from a put-together look.

Studio Nicholson Winter 2024